21-24 Bridge St,
CAMBRIDGE,
CB2 1UJ
(01223) 311053
The ViewCambridge Review
Edwinns is a classy, upmarket restaurant that has kept sophisticated Cambridge locals coming back for its good British food and relaxed ambience.
The Venue
Edwinns lies in the heart of the city centre, surrounded by many chain restaurants. It is itself part of a chain, but it's only small, which is usually a sign the owners value quality over quantity.
It's stuck around (recently celebrating its 20th anniversary) by keeping the decor modern and fresh and by serving consistently good food.
A neutral palette of grey, white and brown creates clean crisp lines, and the unique flower displays keep it contemporary.
Good lighting emphasises the light fresh feel, and the restaurant is spacious enough to give each customer a cosy yet communal feel.
The People
Edwinns informality rubs off onto every customer so, even though the restaurant is refined, the clientele don't feel the need to speak in hushed tones but instead enjoy lively chatter and regular live music.
Gentle live music, mostly classical jazz, maintains the buzz. Laidback locals - including students, families and friends - relax in the upbeat environment. Staff are friendly and casual which makes the experience more enjoyable.
The Food
Dishes of classic British and modern European are served with class but very little fuss. A three-course meal can be pricy, with starters at around £5, mains from £9 to £18 and desserts for £5.25, but the £16 set menu is great value and offers a good selection.
The baked Roquefort souffle isn't served in a ramekin but on the plate - without collapsing. This is because it has a thicker consistency which, although still light, doesn’t melt in your mouth. The strong, creamy flavour of the sharp blue cheese comes through well and is enhanced by the crispy edges of the souffle that add a charred flavour. The accompanying sweet onion relish is a good contrast, but the two slivers are not enough. The fresh salad adds sharpness from the balsamic vinaigrette which balances the dish well.
For main course, the asparagus, broad bean and mint risotto is a simple dish with a good vegetable combination and a lovely texture. The risotto is well-cooked not sloppy, and decent chunks of asparagus add crunch and freshness. The sweetness of the broad bean runs through the dish, with the mellow mint and the peppery olive oil coming through strongly.
The chocolate tart smells of heady bitter chocolate and fresh citrus. The richness of dark chocolate combined with sharp orange coulis and crunchy base is delicious. Unfortunately the chocolate is so smooth it's almost like sauce not tart.
The Drink
The drinks list is extensive with a small but classic collection of cocktails for £5.95 and a famed selection of whiskies. The wine list has a good mix of grape and region, with prices suiting all budgets from £15 to £50.
The Champagne selection is also impressive, ranging from the simple Berr Estates Cuvee Brut for £21 to the famous Dom Perignon for £95. There’s also a good mix of beers and ales such as Corona, Leffe Blonde and London Pride.
The Last Word
A good quality restaurant serving tasty food with none of the pretentiousness you’d expect.
Edwinns Restaurant has been reviewed by 1 users