Set in a beautiful medieval building, this modern bistro serves high quality British cuisine. Using local and seasonal ingredients it shows the best of what Cambridgeshire has to offer.

The Venue
The Hotel Du Vin is a sleek hotel catering to customers who have a decent bulge in their wallet. The hotel has a high standard that this restaurant upholds.

With a modern revamp, the Hotel Du Vin Bistro uses the interesting architecture of the room but creates a more contemporary setting.

Beige walls, dark brown furniture and soft lighting create a sophisticated tone. The artwork is typical of French bistros - it has a sense of humour and it’s focused on food and wine.

They’ve managed to create a decor that is cohesive with the hotel, while still making customers feel like it’s a separate entity with its own character and charm.

The People
An older, more sophisticated crowd is attracted to Hotel Du Vin Bistro. The dress code is relatively smart and there are plenty of business colleagues in suits, or well-dressed families who want a classy environment.

The lack of youth is evident as there is very little liveliness in the place. Instead, there's a more formal atmosphere with a quiet, peaceful tone - ideal for a relaxing yet elegant meal.

The Food
Head Chef Jonathan Dean has paid attention to his ingredients and ensures the menu is updated regularly to include seasonal variations and locally produced ingredients. Dishes are well-thought out and varied to cater to all tastes.

Starters come in at around £5, with mains averaging out at £20, but the set lunch menu is an exceptional deal, with two courses for £15.50 and three for £17.50.

The ham hock terrine starter is packed full of flavour. It's thick and meaty and tastes of authentic countryside ham with hints of fresh parsley. The ham's saltiness is intense but the sweet and sour chutney and the fresh mustard vinaigrette on the salad refreshes the palate and adds a subtle kick.

The seared salmon is cooked to perfection. Its moist, tender flesh retains the fresh salmon flavour, and the crisp, salty skin is a treat. The butter and chive sauce is creamy but not too rich and brings out the natural sweetness of the salmon. Potatoes and spinach accompany it, and they're well-cooked.

Summer-inspired strawberry shortcake is a simple way to end a rich meal. The Chantilly cream isn’t too sweet, but has a thick consistency and brings out the sweetness of the strawberries. The shortcake is crunchy, adding texture, and there's a hint of vanilla. However, the dessert fails to make a lasting impression.

The Drink
As you'd expect with a name like the Hotel Du Vin Bistro, the wine cellar here is connoisseur's heaven. A thick folder lists their selection which is exceptional in both range and quality.

Many bottles cost more than £100 (a 1997 La Tache Grand Cru is £670) but there are still plenty of affordable wines and the house wine is very good.

The sommelier is knowledgeable and eager to help if the menu makes your head spin. There are also cocktails for £6.50 and bottled beers for £3.

The Last Work
A top-end restaurant offering consistently good food and wine, however, the atmosphere needs a lift to make it special.

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